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RSCAT ROD TORQUE SPECS

 

IMPORTANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

1. Disassemble rods and thoroughly clean (including bolt and beam threads) to remove rust preventative.
2. Apply ARP Molylube to the threads and under the head of each bolt.
3. Install rods by bringing cap and beam into alignment. Tap into place before installing bolts (DO NOT USE BOLTS TO PULL CAPS INTO POSITION) Each rod is numbered and MUST be assembled with the same number on cap and beam.
4. Sequentially torque bolts to specified torque NOT TO EXCEED maximum specification for stretch.

DESCRIPTION

RECOMMENDED
TORQUE

NOT TO EXCEED
STRETCH

5/16" x 1.500" ARP 2000 cap screw 26 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0056" stretch)
3/8" x 1.600" ARP 8740 cap screw 45 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0047" stretch)
3/8" x 1.600" ARP 2000 cap screw 50 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0058" stretch)
3/8" ARP 8740 Wave Loc bolt & nut 50 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0063" stretch)
7/16" x 1.400" ARP 8740 cap screw 64 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0046" stretch)
7/16" x 1.500" SCAT 2001 cap screw 63 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0050" stretch)
7/16" x 1.600" ARP 8740 cap screw 63 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0050" stretch)
7/16" x 1.600" ARP 2000 cap screw 70 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0062" stretch)
7/16" x 1.800" ARP 8740 cap screw 63 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0060" stretch)
7/16" x 1.800" SCAT 2001 cap screw 63 ft./lb w/ARP moly (.0060" stretch)

 

5 WAYS TO BREAK THE NOSE OF A CRANKSHAFT

 

In recent months we have had numerous questions and issues raised about the nose of the crank and what can cause it to break. What we have found is that in most cases the crankshaft gets the blame for such failures. But in fact, it is the parts that are being used in conjunction with the crank, it is the additional machining done to the parts that are being used with the crank, it is 99% of the time NOT the crank that caused the crank to break.

               1. IMPROPER MACHINED CRANK GEARS 

    A. Champher machined at wrong angle.

    B. Champher machined with too small an angle.  

    C. Belt drive gears.

The seal sleeve bottoms to the face of the main before the interface of the gear bottoms against the step in the nose of the crank. All of the above prevents the crank gear from bottoming against the step on the nose of the crank. This leaves a gap between the gear and the step, which allows the crank to flex ...A fatigue crack starts. SNAP!!!! The crank breaks.

                    2. DAMPERS WITH MOVING INERTIA WEIGHTS - .Fluid, balls, springs, inertia rings with rubber O-Rings, etc. Can you balance a wheel on your race car if the tires are flat???? How can your rotating assembly be balanced if to quote one manufacturer," These units (Dampers) should not be on the crank for balancing as the inertia weight may not be centered until the engine starts. "NEWS FLASH!!!! Centrifugal force will always take the inertia weight off center no matter what RPM. Your assembly is never balanced. TELL TALE SIGN!!!! Metal transferred on nose outside diameter and damper internal diameter ...A fatigue crack starts. SNAP!!!! The crank breaks.

            3. EXTERNAL BALANCE vs. RPM - Rotating weight multiplies as RPM increases. Engines have heavier or lighter balance weights and larger or smaller noses. RPM above 5500RPM is more risky on a Small Block Chevy than a Big Block Chevy. However, as RPM’s go up, the weight more and more wants to leave the crank due to centrifugal force. Do not be surprised if at some point fatigue sets in and the nose comes off.

            4. DRIVES EXTENDING BEYOND THE NORMAL DISTANCE ON THE NOSE - Multi-stage oil pumps, blowers, etc all have belt drives that require torque taking off at 90 degrees to center line of the crank. More torque is necessary for driving these things and further away from main bearing support all leads to multiple of leverage wiggling the nose. Fatigue sets in, nose breaks, blower stops. The Small Block Chevy has the smallest diameter nose and the weakest of all. Note: Blowers take substantially more 90 degree torque than dry sump pumps, therefore, more likely to break noses. Not recommended for Small Block Chevy. If a blower is being used, use a crank with a Big Block nose.

           5. IMPROPER BALANCING TECHNIQUE - The counterweights on a crankshaft are designed to work all together as a system within a certain bob weight range. To correct the balance on a crank where the counterweights are too heavy the following should be followed:

Internal Balance: If more than 2 holes are required in each end, the outer diameter of all the counter weights should be turned in a lathe to correct the out of balance condition in all the counterweights. If you try to drill more holes, you will create a secondary wave which will lead to crank flex and eventually a fatigue crank.

External Balance: The crank is spun with the external balance and flywheel. If it is determined that the assembly is too heavy where the weight is on the damper and flywheel, do not make the correction on the end counterweights of the crank. The out of balance condition is in the damper and flywheel, which is where it should be corrected. It is very simple to alter the bolt on weight of the damper and drill the balance weight on the flywheel. If these components need to be replaced simply bolt on the proper weight to the damper and match balance the flywheel which has to be balanced anyway. If you correct in the end counterweights, you will create a wave in the crank which will wiggle the nose of the crank which well eventually start a fatigue crack which will snap the crank.

Stroker kits.com can balance your assemblies on our in house CEMB digital Balancer. All rotating assemblies will be with in 1/2 grams both ends combined call us for prices and details.

10 RULES FOR SUCCESSFUL STROKER BUILDS

  1. Select as long as a rod as possible to minimize the frictional losses from side loading and cut the engine's mechanical noise.

  2. Select the lightest reciprocating components for the bottom end.

  3. Use an effective crank damper

  4. Use an oil pan that keeps the oil away from the bottom end rotating assembly as entertainment will cost big power and may lead to failure.

  5. Go for as high a compression ratio as possible as it will off-set the engine's reduced mechanical efficiency due to it's greater piston friction.

  6. Use cylinders heads with valves as large as possible as there are a lot more cubes to feed.

  7. Be sure to tighten up the cam's lobe centerline angle (LCA) from whatever was optimum before by about 1 degree for every 16 cubic inches of capacity increase.

  8. Increase valve lift at least the same proportion as the increase in displacement.

  9. Make sure the induction system has enough flow capability to handle the extra cubic inches.

  10. Try to keep the induction system cool as this makes more difference with a stoked engine.

  

Great Reasons To Buy A Stroker Kit From STROKERKITS.COM
 Our kits are designed for the least expense for balancing  
     We know about proper block prepping and we are a full in house machine shop
 We offer balancers and flex plates and tech help
  One of the largest selection of Stroker Kits on the Internet
Note: Some Stroker Kits may require additional machine work for assembly and a small base circle camshaft